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LIGHT
SABER TUTORIAL 2 The
"Budget Combat Saber"
There are a lot of pictures here, so
this page may take a while to load.
Build at
your own risk! I accept no responsibility for
anything you do resulting from these construction
methods. These tutorials are just here to help
others accomplish some of the things I have. I have made
mistakes and learned from them. You will too.
Here, I try to share some of the lessons I've learned.
Remember to always wear safety gear when working with
tools, including safety goggles and breathing masks, and
always use glues and paints in well ventilated areas.
Thank you.
| This will make you some functional
"combat" sabers. They are not the
best looking, but they offer a quick and cheap
solution to a common Fan Film based problem.
If you'd like a saber that looks a little better
please check out my Hero
Saber Tutorial.
Okay, here's what you need. Some
3/4" copper piping, Copperhead BB's, some
fiberglass filler, and the cheap
"flashlight" toy lightsaber handle (just
yank out the telescoping plastic cone).
Pictured is the cheap Qui-Gon Jinn Saber handle
and you can see an Obi-Wan flashlight handle, both
from Episode One. I think I paid maybe $5
for both of them.
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| Cut the copper pipe down to size so
that it will fit in flush with the toy lightsaber
handle. |
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| Now take the pipe and make sure that
the dowel rod you are going to use fits snuggly
within. Use duct tape to make it more snug.
If you want the dowel to be removable, I would
put a large layer of tape around the opening of
the copper pipe where it meets the dowel so that
when you pour fiber glass later, it won't get down
into the crack between the copper pipe and the
dowel.
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| Now, the plastic toy saber handle
with the dowel mounted in it. Is not
properly balanced. We need more weight in
the hilt. So what I did was use a mixture of
BB's and sand to add the weight and then mixed
Fiberglass filler into it. |
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| Mount the dowel and pipe into the
handle about where you want it and use wooden or
plastic shunts to keep the dowel and pip in
place. Carefully, pout the BB's/sand/fiberglass
mixture into the remaining space.
Again, if you want the dowel to be removable,
make sure no fiberglass gets into the crack
between the dowel and the pipe. Because,
once it does and dries, that dowel is not going
anywhere, and you'll most likely have to drill it
out. Not fun. On the other hand, if
you don't care about a removable dowel (like
me...I had enough extras not to worry) by all
means pour fiberglass down in there. It will
make it stronger and you definitely don't have to
worry about the dowel rod popping out of the hilt
during a fight and possibly injuring someone.
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| Pictured to the right, is what the
hilt looks like when it is filled with the BB's/Sand/Fiberglass
mixture and has dried. Now the handles weigh
2 to 3 pounds and make the dowels nearly
weightless and very easy to weild. |
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| Pictured at right, are three of the
stunt sabers used in "Sith:
Apocalypse". I went on to modify them
slightly by attaching Scotchlite tape in bands on
the "blades", so that they would show up
better during the Rotoscoping process. This
turned out not to be necessary because they didn't
show up well anyway. Therefore I recommend
painting bands on the dowel rods instead, or
leaving them blank. |
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I hope this helped!
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