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The Nine Gates to the
Kingdom of Shadows Binding
the pages mini-tutorial. DISCLAIMER I
am not a professional bookbinder. The methods outlined
below come from trial and error. The
method below will yield a sturdy prop book, that will
last you awhile, but I make no guarantees about the
binding lifespan etc. Also,
since were working with some pretty strong glue it would
be wise to work in a well ventilated area and to protect
your workspace.
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1. SUPPLIES
Get your
starting supplies together. At a minimum you will
need leather for your cover, an old binder (or
hard cardboard) for the boards, some paper to
cover the inside of the boards, some rubber bands
and/or clamps, and for this technique, some
Gorilla Glue. You will also need some kind
of glue to glue the leather to the boards. I find
that superglue or CA glue with some
accelerant works very well.
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<-Extra step for curved spine

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For a straight spine




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2. BINDING THE PAGES
Hopefully, you've
got your bundle of pages printed out and aged
before this step. Aging the pages after this
step becomes a colossal pain, so trust me, if you
haven't aged your pages yet, go do so now. I have
pictures here for doing a curved spine (screen
accurate) or a straight spine (folio). Except for the initial step
with the curved binding, both methods are
identical. Also, the pictures of the curved
pages being bound are from a journal I was binding
but which is much larger than a 9 Gates, so don't
use those pictures to scale your replica.
The first step (and
the only one which is different for a curves spine
binding) is to actually cut out the curved
spine. Then you must fit your pages to the
curvature of the spine in order to ensure that
your pages will fit when the pages are bound and
glued into the boards. This step is
obviously not required for the flat (what I call
'folio' style) binding.
Although the
pictures are fairly self explanatory, I'll write
out some text to clarify. After
getting your pages aligned the way you want them
bound, clamp them between two stiff pieces of
wood. I used two spare pieces I
had. Make sure that there is no room
to move among the pages and that the page bundle
is extremely tight.
Next take a piece
of wet tissue or expendable cloth and run it
across the spine of the page bundle. Gorilla
Glue works best when the medium is slightly
damp. So you want to just barely dampen out
the spine of the pages. Then I've found the
best way is to apply a line or several beads of
glue down the middle. Keep in mind that
Gorilla Glue expands, so a little goes a long
way. You don't need to ladle it
on. Use a moist q-tip or damp tissue to
spread the glue along the spine. Then wait
till it dries. Voila! Done! The
binding will hold up reasonably well, as long as
you don't manhandle the pages.
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3. MAKING THE BOARDS
This is actually a
pretty easy part. I find it easiest to start
with a binder. Then cut off the outer
covering so that you're left with the just the
cardboard. Take the bundle of bound pages
and lay them against the cardboard and measure out
how big you want the covers to be. Be sure
to give yourself at least 1/4 inch to work with
around the edges. Then cut out what
will act as your book's spine.
I find the
best thing to use for
the curved spine is a paper towel
tube. Cut it down to the degree of curvature
you need for the spine. You can firm this up
with a coating of PVA(wood) glue if you need to.
Just paint it on and let it dry.
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4. CUT THE LEATHER
Lay out the boards on the leather
and measure out what you need for space.
Again, give yourself some room to glue down the
leather and make sure that it will
fold. Also, you want to give yourself
some leeway for the raised bands on the back of
the book.
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5. MAKING THE BANDS
Both the film and the novel talk
about the 5 raised bands on the spine of the
book. So, since we're not doing the bands
the real way, we need to fake them.
There are several ways of doing this. Find a
material with a little give in it and glue it
along the spine where you want the bands to
be. Even though you see foam pieces
being used in the picture, I've actually gotten
excellent results using bits of styrene tubing
(like a thick straw). I cut them to size
after splitting the "straw" in two, and
then glue then with the 'arch' side
up. (This is what is shown in the last
picture). Don't worry if they compress, it
will still be enough to act as a raised band.
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6. GLUE THE LEATHER
First rule of doing this, go
slowly. If you don't, you'll regret
it. Start with some CA glue and accelerant,
or some super glue and glue down the edges of the
leather first, At this stage you still want
the leather to be able to move around a
bit. Then I work towards the center,
putting in sparse amounts of glue (Gorilla Glue or
CA) to get the result I need. Make
sure that the leather is remaining
tight.
For the spine, I find it is
easiest t o glue down one end and then add glue
(CA glue with accelerant works best here) and
press down the leather. Do this all
the way up the spine until you are
done. Keep in mind throughout this
process, you may want to keep test fitting your
pages.
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7. WRAPPING THINGS UP
Once your leather cover is dry
enough to be stable, glue your bound pages onto
the spine of your leather-glued
boards. Then use clamps, weights,
presses, rubber bands, whatever you need, to keep
the whole thing in shape while it
dries. Shown here is Folio 9 Gates
replica being bound and my completed bound
journal.
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to the Bibliotheca Apocalyptica page.
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